J.W.Anderson

Womenswear Resort 2014

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Menswear Spring/Summer 2014

Discribing his womenswear collection as "disturbed workwear", J.W.Anderson to us, turned those utilitarian pieces into avant garde works of Japanese minimalist goodness.

In an ode to those origami like techniques of the wrapping and folding sort, Anderson deconstructed, re-thought and distorted silhouettes; making for many conversation starters. His rather disregard for the societal gender constraints is both admirable and frankly refreshing. Both collections feature a very clinical palette of black, white, nude, the occasional bursts of red and yellow.

There were countless great knitted pieces, as well as intriguing cut-outs and suspensions which were almost gravity defying. Yet, oversized pants under tunic like tops (all in black) made up most of his works. In the womenswear collection, Anderson crafted micro-pleated woollen skirts with raw edging, which were matched with asymmetric tops.

As mentioned by Matthew Schneier in Style.com's review of the menswear collection, J.W.Anderson's work creates and provokes much dialogue.

Is he taking the piss with those suspended rectangular cut-outs?

Why has he reduced menswear to "column architecture"(Anderson)?

It's all very exciting.

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Fendi Resort 2014

Fendi and fur are inseparable, and knowing Karl, although it may look fake at times, it's real, it's all real. Unofficially referred to as 'Italy's leading house in designer fur and every other sort of reptile skin' [by us], references to the animal kingdom were countless (be they leather...or the occasional sequinned python dress.) Despite it being only a Resort collection, the sheer workmanship within each of the garments is awe inspiring. On one hand, the sport-luxe vibe gave way to striped track pants, then you had intricately beaded shift dresses, lengthy skirts patch-worked with texture; and a collection which now brings the jungle to thought.

Punches of blues, reds and soft yellows amped up the presentation which was largely madeup of textured neutrals. There was also a very Phoebe Philo-esque mix of both tan and black leather, which reminded of this look from the Celine Fall 2011 Collection. Overall, it was a very linear focused collection, with biker jackets, and skirt hems alike outlined with leather strips.

Yet, one of the most well-crafter pieces was the mink capelet, which in itself encapsulated the entire essence of Fendi. What is a Fendi collection without a touch of Mink?

(photographs sourced via. Style.com)

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with love.

Christian Dior Resort 2014

Raf Simon's took to the challenge of merging his new Dior to the world of Resort collections for the first time. Set in [not so sunny] Monaco, Simons was forced to pitch a plastic covered, white box-like structure next to a murky and grey raging Mediterranean. Of course, this make-shift construction was in place of what was meant to be a Hitchcockian like seaside venue. Word has it that Simon's even hoped that seagulls would visit. Never the less, Simon's still managed to put on the show that he hoped for.

So he began with "the clichés of what we all think about when we think about cruise", whilst "also want[ing] to bring a new materialization and work with fabrics that [he is] not used to". This exploration led to the embrace of lace, which Simons admitted to having shunned in the past for it's "old, [overtly] romantic and fragile" ways. This propelled him to take on the challenge of turning a 'stuffy' fabric into something "modern, edgy and kind of futuristic" (Simons). The lace allowed him to create a great contrast and interest (for lack of a better word) within each look.

Dynamic and futuristic was the collection, as the historic "Bar" jacket was painted bright red, and even the "New Look" esque skirts were cut down the middle and left flowing. Bright colours were painted in racing stripes and curved panels across the body, alongside metallic foils and other obscure materials. Lace was made to not appear feminine per say, but instead was merely embraced as another texture to the Dior quilt.

Even the idea of a conventional tailored pantsuit was deconstructed, paired with geometric printed crop tops. Azure and bright orange headscarves also featured, in an overall rather impressionist take on Dior, where asymmetry and dynamism was put at the forefront, with "a lot of freedom" (Simons).



Five things we can take from this collection

1. Metallic 50's style bikini bottom's

2. Middle split! (and sleek middle part)

3. That monochromatic pantsuit

4. Sheer dresses

5. COLOUR

(photographs sourced via. Style.com & WWD)

with love.