Balenciaga Spring 2015

Alexander Wang presented his Spring 2015 collection for Balenciaga during Paris Fashion Week- amongst smoke and mirrors (literally). He had the models parading on a very futuristic transparent glass runway, where below smoke was dispensed i.e they appeared to be walking on air.

Maturing into the house, Wang took inspiration from Balenciaga's namesake "fishermen's net" evening coat, immersing the collection in all sorts of netting (heavily used in his namesake line as well) and sculpted mesh skirts. He constructed floor sweeping overcoats which also had a slight Matrix (circa 1999) slickness to them, alongside the futuristic eyewear of course.

Neck lines were fitted like thick collars, and paired with mini shorts, it was a typically Balenciaga silhouette if I ever did see one. The soft as ever colour palette (with the addition of back) was a fusion of white, lavender, beige and pastel pink, as he attempted to "contrast the things that feel very industrialised with a gentleness" (Alexander Wang).

“We started thinking a lot this season about opulence with the mood feeling very . . . restrained in fashion lately, we thought, Let’s go indulgent!” 

- Alexander Wang

Athletic, durable and skin-tight, notable Wang was seen to take inspiration from the functional attire of cyclists in "tak[ing] the preciousness out" of the heavily detailed monochrome ensembles. Wang has never strayed from toying with the toughness, and we have watched his fascination with laser-cut mesh grow as it has been a large part of many of his collections for his namesake label (Spring 2013 & Fall 2012).

Cristóbal Balenciaga cemented architectural volumes and embroidery as the pillars of his design house, and within this collection we see the talented Alexander Wang embrace those fundamental traits yet morph it into something of his own making.

I am utterly in awe. 

with love.

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Elizabeth & James Resort 2015

Simple, uncomplicated. 

Quite like comfort food- it's comfort clothing, and it soothes the soul. That's the kind of clothing the Elizabeth and James Resort 2015 collection gave us. Cudos to the Olsen twins for sticking to what they know and do best, serving up us a contemporary take on the Resort season. 

Of course there were still noticeable references to the Cruise season, with nautical stripes, flowing summer white's and nifty ring closures on pieces. The styling is also very on point, with the most delicate and beautiful gold chokers placed where appropriate- and slides being one of the main focus'.  I also have my eye on those slouchy leather handbags- my pick for this season. 

Everything here is utter perfection for me. Since it's Winter in Australia at the moment I wouldn't mind curling up in one of their super soft looking woollen beige coats, swoon. 

Click through to view more of the collection.

with love. 

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Zimmermann Resort 2015

Dubbed "The Light Riot", Zimmerman's most recent collection flaunts plenty of skirting, peek-a-boo lattice work and a hella lot of embroidery. Their forever nostalgic and playful use of lace was combined with Balinese inspired dyed prints, and as an outcome we have a modern-day (sophisticated) gypsy woman.

I'm just lusting over those eyelet embroidered cotton skirts. 

If you follow Zimmermann on Instagram, you would have seen glimpses of their new East Hampton's  store opening at a beautiful Hampton's estate akin with a pool and white clad house. This garden party also came about at the same time of their Resort 2015 collection shot in NYC, as the Zimmermann sisters further establish themselves abroad. A very smart move for the brand.

Zimmermann and the Hampton's go together like strawberries and cream.

with love.

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Ellery Resort 2015

If I ever had to pick from the heavy weights of the Australian fashion industry, I'd pick Ellery five times over.

Kym's latest Resort 2015 collection embodied everything I love about Ellery, it's simplicity, luxe and absolute sophistication. Bell sleeves marked garments of crepe, satin and organza, alongside quintessentially Ellery-style structural tunics and v-necks.

We're talking timeless classics, or in other words- regret-less purchases.

Whilst the shapes contained typical hard lines, there was an understated fluidity to the collection, with  wool being softened by its systematic draping. Pointed crepe hems were met with cropped as well as floor skirting pants, and the styling was impeccable as ever- with the models hands being dusted with the most delicate golden bangles and rings to match.

In particularly, I was in awe by her modest blue linen sleeveless shirt, which was said to be inspired by the colouring of suburban swimming pools. As far as inspirations go, linear stripes were drawn from the works of David Hockney, transformed into a bold brushstroke like print covering a selection of midi skirts and dresses.

Although true to her name, Kym Ellery allowed her simplest and most refined pieces to act as her strongest.

That cream-toned bonded crepe gets me every time. 

with love.

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Versace Haute Couture Fall 2013 Details

We can always leave it to Donatella to “go back to real glamour”.

This time with a focus on the picture perfect ways of “that black-and-white era."

Photographs sourced via. Dazed & Confused (Lea Colombo)

with love.

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013

Last resort season, Raf Simons was all about embracing a new sense of dynamic freedom, and that surely was translated within his Haute Couture Fall 2013 collection for the house.

Talk about complicated, for this collection Raf meshed global references (from Europe, to Africa, Asia and even America.) Noting that he was indeed for the idea of "freeing up couture" (Raf Simons), yet again he pursued the notion of haute couture in a more modern and dare we say it- accessible and wearable sense.

What a remarkable beautiful collection is was.



Attempting to re-structure fashion noms as we know them, Raf explored the future of haute couture, stating that "psychologically, emotionally, [couture] can be approached the same way as ready-to-wear: out there for women to enjoy and to wear.…It’s a psychology of how clothes can look in relation to a modern woman and the way she is living her life and experiencing the culture.” For us, this is the special thing about Raf Simons at Christian Dior. He allows the house to explore the limitations of the fashion world in ways which have not been done before.



So as Raf Simons strives to grant us freedom, we see a range of Parisienne tailoring (yes the good ol' bar jacket again), alongside traditional Asian and African influences. Almost disjointed, the collection is quite a rightful interpretation of Raf Simon's Internationalist nature, embracing the new-age Dior woman (client) in whichever part of the world she may reside in. Optimistic national emblems, bold shades, and the liquorice all-sort like stripes (which we have grown very familiar with) mark much of the energetic collection.

"If we don't adapt to what women in society are now about, couture might disappear"

-Raf Simons

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

Valentino Fall 2013 Couture Details

In a collection of extravagance and sublime moments, this look was a favourite of ours.

We particularly adored this Valentino piece because of its beautiful sheer lace and understated opulence, embodying the wonder of the house.

Photographs sourced via. Style.com

with love.

Dior Homme Spring 2014

At the heart of Paris [Menswear] Fashion Week is Dior Homme.

This time around the palette comprised of cobalt blue's, rich burgundy's and black's. Van Assche also worked pixelated Mondrain-like references into the collection, with abstract rectangular like shapes cut into many of the looks.

Once again we see monochromatic looks take the rein, as leather blazers are dyed blue and paired alongside coordinating tailored shorts and shirt.

The Dior collection had many double breasted pieces, with the classic blazer being toyed with, cut here and there. There were even shirts complete with zip's straight down the middle instead of le usual [pain in the ass] buttons.

A very smart and arty collection, we'd say!

Photographs sourced via. Style.com

with love.

Balenciaga Spring 2014 [Menswear]

Just too damn cool.

Monsieur Alexander Wang produced a classic, nostalgic, minimal and very convincing debut collection for the history house of Christobal Balenciaga. A heavily black infused palette marked the Spring 2014 menswear show, also filled with copious lashings of leather. There was undoubtedly a luxurious edge, with the immaculate cut and fit of each of the looks making for an overall collection of simply, great tailoring.Alexander Wang's mark as a designer can still be felt within the collection's pieces, for example the sleeveless white shirt fitted with only one button, left to swing open (at ones joy or peril). It was a crisp and sharp showing, with semi-relaxed pant teamed with jackets of the most futuristic opaque-plastic looking black materials, and others made of classic wool.

As chic as it was, we can't help but relate it to Stefano Pilai for YSL menswear. Very YSL circa Fall 2013, no?

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

Prada Spring 2014 [Menswear]

Ugly Pretty.

Miuccia thrives on it.

"Ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting, Maybe because it is newer" (Miuccia Prada, NY Times T Magazine interview).Treating fashion as art, Miuccia draws parallels to the sense of ugliness which is very much alive in art and films, yet in fashion she notes it is scandalous- a taboo.



The menswear collection of Prada Spring/Summer 2014 embodied Miuccia's feminist mantra to a 'T'. It included eleven strong-shouldered female models for crying out loud. [To be sold as their resort collection], the women donned dressed which featured all those mismatched prints which were worked into the menswear.

The set was called "Menacing Paradise", think tropical paradise turned deadly war zone. It was a "questioning the cliché of the exotic, the cliché of the perfect summer – impossible happiness" (Miuccia Prada). The show space was made up of beautiful sunsets, a helicopter straight out of  Apocalypse Now, a town, water and palms. Miuccia counteracted the beautiful paradise with human ugliness. The soundtrack was overlapped by the thudding sound of chopper's, adding to the uneasy, almost threatening vibe.

We can't help thinking Don Draper in Hawaii with Megan, which also happens to kick off his downward psychologically menacing spiral (as the collection may appear bright and sunny at a glance, but it is dark and foreboding at its core).



“Prada’s designs stem from an inner vision of herself,” (Cathy Horyn) as we see Miuccia position the Prada women as rather; holding the cards, a knowing seductress. This led to a lack of power being bestowed to the men, even given it is labeled menswear. Dressed in floral, tropical prints, tailored pieces, and silk the men were crafted as characters from films, heartthrobs, objects of affection.

"This is more complicated, more challenging. Just 'clothes' is boring. We need more passion, more humanity." 

-Miuccia Prada

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

Mary Katrantzou Resort 2014

With prints as her signature, Mary Katrantzou tackled Resort wear for the first time. The prints embodied hyper-coloured dreamlike landscape art, with blooming flowers, lakes and rolling hills. Melancholy and sometimes haunting, her prints are the soul of her designs- filled with Mary's own emotions and experiences.

A Japanese bridge, Chinese fisherman and the high-rise apartment towers in Sao Paulo were also pictured, as we can even see a multitude of references within each look. Yet, it all seemed to work. A printed biker jacket opened up to mirror that same picture on the dress underneath, as did many other garments. Sequins were added to her yellow floral print, as well as perspex embellishments making some of the apartment windows within her garments. The airy skirts worked wonders, giving movement and life to Katrantzou's kaleidoscopic travels.

Word also has it that the Mary Katratzou business is also growing, with the recruitment of sixteen members of staff, as well as planning to rightly delve into e-commerce next season. Big things are coming.

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

J.W.Anderson

Womenswear Resort 2014

+

Menswear Spring/Summer 2014

Discribing his womenswear collection as "disturbed workwear", J.W.Anderson to us, turned those utilitarian pieces into avant garde works of Japanese minimalist goodness.

In an ode to those origami like techniques of the wrapping and folding sort, Anderson deconstructed, re-thought and distorted silhouettes; making for many conversation starters. His rather disregard for the societal gender constraints is both admirable and frankly refreshing. Both collections feature a very clinical palette of black, white, nude, the occasional bursts of red and yellow.

There were countless great knitted pieces, as well as intriguing cut-outs and suspensions which were almost gravity defying. Yet, oversized pants under tunic like tops (all in black) made up most of his works. In the womenswear collection, Anderson crafted micro-pleated woollen skirts with raw edging, which were matched with asymmetric tops.

As mentioned by Matthew Schneier in Style.com's review of the menswear collection, J.W.Anderson's work creates and provokes much dialogue.

Is he taking the piss with those suspended rectangular cut-outs?

Why has he reduced menswear to "column architecture"(Anderson)?

It's all very exciting.

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTIONS

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2014 [Menswear]

So London Fashion Week is up and running..... Menswear Spring 2014 fashion week that is.

The outerwear at Burberry Prorsum was great, but obviously we can always leave it to Christopher Bailey and the house which is known for their trench-coats to give us some lovely coats. Okay, we understand that this may be menswear, but with oversized androgynous jackets being rather in fashion at the moment we are in awe by Bailey's creations.

Primary colours were largely featured, with even the classic trench being swapped for a range of vivid waterproof jackets. The look was slouchy, casual and a little quirky- very London.

with love.

Christopher Kane Resort 2014

There is no denying that this is some of Christopher Kane's best work. The outstanding collection plucked motif's straight from the early digital age. Mentioning that he "love[d] science", Kane applied much of those computerised special effects to his resort collection.

As unique and beautiful as they were, Kane used his inspiration which came from the linear/wire qualities of computer games straight from the '70's and '80's to create delicate, lacy features. He embellished these lacy flower images to jersey jumpers, shift dresses and finally gowns alike.

Decked in pop-art shades, as well as black and white, the web like lace framed most of the collection, giving it a sensual and delicate look. Yet, there were also body-con dress, wrapped in pop-art coloured tape, and linear images of the human body applied to white-cotton tops. One of our favourite looks was that pictured first, where chambray jean shorts are beautifully paired with an entirely white lace top. Doses of red and yellow were also a large part of the collection, in school-girl like shapes and equipped with large, round, diamonte buttons.

The hybrid web/lace motif is a perfect example of the creative mind of Christopher Kane, as he beautifully ties in an entire collection and aligns with his nerdy-science fetish. How exciting- especially for the resort season.

  

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

Louis Vuitton Resort 2014

What better muse than the utterly chic french woman? Relaxed, almost bohemian yet tailored, the Louis Vuitton's resort collection formed an entire womans wardrobe, with outfits suitable for every and any occasion.

In fact, Julie de Libran [Louis Vuitton's women's design director) specified that the collection was for a "sophisticated bohemian...[who] likes to mix and match, and combine comfort and sensuality".

With such versatility on the agenda, there was an air of nonchalance and an eclectic mix which drew to mind those French icons of the '70's. Fittingly, a deep French blue was championed through a double-breasted pantsuit, and there were no shortage of tweed pieces (which are an obvious essential to any French woman). The French blue continued, making for a very maritime esque classic appeal.

Cashmere robe like coats were tied at the waist, alongside boxy tops and miniskirts, and there was even a casual-ish take on the traditional suit. There was also a decent amount of denim pieces embedded within the looks (funnily enough the word denim actually comes from "de Nîmes": the French region where the fabric was first made), with a-line frayed hem skirts, maxi skirts and button downs. Tying into Jacob's last collection with the house, floral frocks mimicked those embroidered tulle wallpaper like vintage prints.

CLICK TO VIEW MORE OF THE COLLECTION

Alexander Wang Resort 2014

Pink is in. According to the resort collection of Alexander Wang. But not only candied bubblegum pink, but also a deep forest green. In the words of the designer himself, he worked with colours of the "super-saccharine, super-sweet" sought. Having said that, who can ignore the mirage of dark black leathers, alongside camel, and white.

Many of the looks featured a sort of hybrid peplum meets box-pleat, all technically (in a construction sense) extraordinary. The way Alexander took on the leathers, and worked in morphing their shapes to the female body worked a treat, making them the defiant standouts. There were dolman sleeves, leather vests, two-piece skirts and a fair share of tennis (mini) skirts throughout the collection.

Tailored pants were also treated with the same pleating as the skirts and blouses, allowing for a paper-bag pant like appeal... yet a sharper version per se. Strong, precisely cut leathers were also paired with metallic knits, and because only Wang has the power to override decades of 'fashion-dont's'; patent white loafers were worn with black pants (*gasp*).





(Photographs sources via. Style.com)

with love.

Lanvin Resort 2014: the highlights

ONE

[beautifully constructed full-skirted a-line dress]

TWO

[thick strap rich blue mod shift dress with a mix of geometric and paisley embellishments]

THREE

[python print mustard and grey sleeved, structured top, paired with monochromatic shorts and crocodile skin (by the look of it) tasseled loafers]

with love.

Marc Jacobs Resort 2014

Loungewear and fur that  Miuccia would approve of, made for the concoction that was Marc Jacob's Resort collection. What says resort wear better than nautical stripes and Jacob's infamous silk pyjama sets anyway?

Having had a flick back to Jacob's last Resort collection, this time round is much more demure. "Relaxed, [with a] casual feeling" (Joseph Carter), the collection oozes comfort, and an underlying ode to Chanel's Deuville with it's mariniere stripes. In subtly paying homage to Chanel, this makes us ponder the thought of Jacob's at Chanel (it seems a very fitting thought to us.)

Jacob's thrives in the compilation of nostalgic eras, with 30's (drop waist dresses) meeting '70's and the '60's meet '90's (crop tops), and it all works incredibly well.

Jamie Bochert is the standout in this cookbook, modelling alongside Charlotte Tomaszewska & Zlata Mangafic with tousled locks. Sprawled on the incredibly comfortable looking (fluffly as hell) striped pillows and throw, each of the model's look glamorously undone (resembling the Miu Miu S/S 2013 Campaign SO MUCH). Oddly-pleated skirts, satin bralets and sequin jackets tied with silk ribbons make up much of the lookbook. Alongside short fur coats, striped t-shirts, silk dresses and Birkenstock esque thick-buckled sandals.

From the man who dresses his muses in silk pyjamas, Jacob's has truly brought back the luxury which is silk pyjamas. Yet surely, surely Marc has had enough of pyjamas as day-wear for now.

with love.